ราคาน้ำมันวันนี้

Bangsan

Sunday 14 February 2010
Bangsan Beach in Chon Buri is the first place where I've ever seen the sea and the beach before. As you can see the sky was a little dark that day but it was still very warm, so my mother made sure to cover me in sunblock. You can still get a nasty sunburn at a beach under cloud cover, especially the closer you get to the equator.

If you look beyond me and Aunt Araya, you can see that Bangsan Beach is primarily a beach for Thai people, not too many tourists here. That's not to say that tourists are not welcome here, they just don't play at this beach, except me that is. As you can see most Thai people dress conservatively at the beach, -didn't see too many bikinis or speedos here.

If you decide to take a break from the tourist scene you may want to check out Bangsan. There is plenty to do here beside sunbathing (something Thai people don't do), like rent a jet-ski for baht 500 per half-hour, or jump on an inflatable tube and go for a float. As for me, a nice nap under an umbrella in the warm Siam air is the best.

The beach is big enough for all of us.

Here you can see one of my favorite people in the world, my big sister May. I call her Pee-May, Pee is the title Thai people address an elder person with. Even Thai language is a modest and polite, which is the best way to get on the good-side of any Thai person, speak nice.

Pee May always speaks nice, thats probable why you see her alone in this picture. My cousin was teasing May, so she needed a little alone time to avoid not speaking nice.

Fresh seafood at Bangsan Beach.

One of the cheapest and most enjoyable meals you can have in Thailand is a fresh seafood lunch at the beach. There are plenty of Thai food vendors strolling the umbrella area of just about any beach in Thailand. Set back and relax in your beach chair and enjoy a fresh boiled basket of shrimp or lobster or papaya salad.

Koh Chang

Tuesday 9 February 2010
Koh Chang isn’t a small island and all the beaches have a different vibe. Most visitors will have a clear favourite that suits their style of travelling and meets their expectations in terms of level of development and the type of accommodation , amenities, facilities etc that are on offer in the nearby area. Unless you are an unfeasibly healthy Scandinavian, or a stoned backpacker, you won’t be walking from beach to beach, therefore choosing where you stay is important.

Read through my random thoughts and descriptions of the different areas and by the end of it all you will either be more confused than ever, as some of the info may not tally with the tour brochures and travel magazine’s ‘Undiscovered, Palm fringed, ‘Last Paradise on Earth’, Oriental Eden’ take on the island; or you will have a better idea of where to stay and what to really expect should you decide to visit.

Once you have done that the Koh Chang Maps section will show you where places to stay, eat and drink are and the chapter on Hotels and Resorts on Koh Chang details my thoughts on around 60 resorts, varying from backpacker huts to luxury hideaways, that you can book online.

Areas of the island in brief . . .where do you want to virtually go today?

Klong Son: You probably won’t stay here unless you book the Aiyapura Resort thinking it is on White Sand Beach. This is a local village with a rather nice bay that is property of a housing developer. Inland, the best elephant camp, fruit farms, good trekking and even a small waterfall can be found in the valley.

North White Sand Beach: The most developed and busiest beach on the island, a kilometre long strip of concrete with no real redeeming architectural features. Hotels, shops, restaurants and tailors shops as far as the eye can see – to some it’s paradise. However, the far northern end of the beach is still excellent, with some funky, old skool budget bungalows hugging the hillside.

South White Sand Beach: A bit quieter, but without the good beach. If your idea of holiday activities consists mainly of lounging in a deckchair on the beach, drinking cocktails and knocking back copious amounts of BBQ seafood nightly, then this is for you. Not the beach to opt for if you are looking for peace and quiet.

Pearl Beach: This is the strip of stoney shoreline between White Sand Beach and Klong Prao. No sand here but a couple of nicer boutique resorts and some good value long stay accommodation. Snorkelling is possible on the small reef just offshore but not a place to stay if you want to walk along a sandy beach everyday as you’ll need to rent a motorbike or rely on public transport to do this.

North Klong Prao Beach: Klong Prao is a long swathe of curving bay split in half by a river estuary which divides it in half. The norther section is busier with several 3 star resorts plus a couple of roadside shopping plazas. The probability of encountering aging Russian package tourists in their speedos at breakfast is high in this area.

South Klong Prao Beach: This area is home to most of the island’s better resorts. Development is still limited in most areas and so it is easy to walk along the beach and get away from people even in High Season. If you want a larger resort or empty beach plus shops/amenities a local village complete with a temple full of monks then it’s worth a look. Bring your matching white linen ensembles to blend in with the ‘dress for dinner’ crowd.

Kai Bae Beach: Not quite as busy or as tacky as White Sand beach but getting there, although it attracts a different type of visitor. If your name is Sven and you are travelling with your wife Annika and your four children aged between 4-12, then this is the beach for you. More for older backpackers or families who prefer either a boutique resort or beach bungalow rather than hotel environment. Although there are a couple of large resorts at the far north and far south of the beach.

Lonely Beach: If you’re on a limited budget and want to spend more on food and drink per day than your accommodation then head here. Basic huts clustered amongst reggae bars, tattoo parlours and cheap eateries. Most accommodation is away from the actual sandy beach and many huts are now moving more upmarket to cater for visitors who like a hot shower and aircon but also want to drink cheap vodka/redbull buckets and party a little. Got traveller’s tales to tell? You’ll find an audience willing to listen on Lonely Beach

Bailan: The sleepy, retarded younger brother of Lonely Beach, 2km to the north. Basic and flashpacker huts for those who want peace and quiet on a budget. If you like to walk barefoot and have been known to start conversations with the phrase “I discovered myself in Vietnam.” and do so without a hint of innuendo, you’ll like it here. There’s also one luxury option can be found, the Dusit Princess, but it’s a remote location if you are expecting a choice of restaurants / bars withing easy reach of your fancy digs.

Bangbao: Koh Chang’s very own ‘Ye Olde Fashioned Quaint Fishing Village’ – but not really. This is the main setting off point for most dive and snorkelling trips. Once home to fishermen, now inhabited by tour agents, souvenir sellers, dive schools, coffee shops, large seafood restaurants etc. Some good views, some souvenir shopping at prices lower than White Sand beach, but lots of garbage and little charm now. Around the bay are a handful of quieter places to stay – especially on the headland to the west.

East Coast: Head here to get away from pretty much everything and everyone. If Osama Bin Laden isn’t in a cave in Afghanistan he may well be living here as it’s one place the CIA would never think to look. It’s too quiet for many people but a handful of resorts cater to those who just want to escape and for whom the island experience isn’t enhanced by trips to a tailor’s , internet cafe, souvenir shop or beer bar during their stay.

Salakkok: There’s not a lot in this beautiful, but rarely visited, mangrove lined bay in the south east of the island – and that’s the attraction. Good canoeing is available though canals snaking through the mangroves, past real fishermen’s houses and into the shallow bay. You’ll need your own transport to get here but worth making the effort in order to see some of the ‘real’ Koh Chang.

Salakphet: Huge bay in the south east of the island. Home to yacht flotillas and a small marina. If you know your jib from your mainsail head here. One very quiet beach with only a couple of basic hut resorts on the eastern side of the bay. Fisherman’s villages and a few good places to eat on the west. Also a couple of waterfalls that are free to enter. Again, not touristy and worth visiting if you want to encounter some genuine local people.

Samet Island

Tuesday 2 February 2010

The Island

Popular with foreign tourists and as a weekend getaway for residents of nearby Bangkok, most of the island (excluding the Na Dan area) belongs to the Khao Laem Ya - Mu Ko Samet National Park. In 1981, the Royal Forest Department declared the archipelago of Samet, along with nine other small islands, the headland of Khao Laem Ya, and the 11 kilometres (6.8 mi) Mae Rampeung Beach to be a National Park, and is thus Ko Samet is under the protection of the National Parks Division of the Thai Government.

Samet

Travel to and from Ko Samet is typically via the small local port at Ban Phe (Thai: บ้านเพ) on the coast. Travelers from Bangkok frequently travel by bus, with departures to Ban Phe from Bangkok's Eastern Bus terminal, the Ekamai bus station, and travel time from Bangkok to Ban Phe of approximately 3-1/2 hours. Owing to the island's close proximity to the coast, just 7 kilometres (4.3 mi) offshore, boats travel casually from Ban Phe to Ko Samet in approximately 30 minutes.

Geography and climate

Located just 220 km from the capital in the Gulf of Thailand, Ko Samet is approximately 13.1 square kilometres (5.1 sq mi) in size, and shaped somewhat like a letter "t". Along the length of the "t" (north-south) the island measures approximately 7 km, and measures 4 km across the "t" (west-east). Forest remains blanket up to 80% of the total area.

Closest to the Rayong coast, lies the small island port village of Na Dan, commonly known as Ko Samet Village, with its popular nearby beach Hat Sai Gaew (Thai: หาดทรายแก้ว), the longest beach on Ko Samet. Most of Ko Samet's beaches lie along the eastern shore of the island. Other beaches on the island include: Ao Phai, Ao Wai, Ao Kui Na Nai, Ao Cho, Ao Kui Na Nok, Ao Vong Duern, Cape Khut, Ao Toei, and Ao Korang at the southern tip, and Ao Prao on the western shore of the island. Just off the southern tip of the island are three small rock-islands, Ko Jan (Moon Island; Thai: เกาะจันทร์ ), Ko San Chalam (Shark Fin Island), and Hin Khao (White Rock; Thai: เกาะหินขาว ).

Ko Samet is one of the driest archipelagos in Thailand. Ko Samet gets significantly less rainfall than Rayong Province, even though it is only a few kilometres offshore. The island's "rainy season" extends only from May to July, but even during this season it has less rain that other islands in Thailand. The island despite being arid, consists of lush forested hills, covered with evergreen and deciduous forest and cajeput trees grow abundantly. Owing to the lack of rain, Ko Samet still ships in potable water to the island.

Administration

Ko Samet is under the administration of Pe Sub-district, Muang District, Rayong Province.

Boundary

Koh Samet is 6.5 kilometres (4.0 mi) south of mainland Rayong province and is surrounded by the Gulf of Thailand. History

It is believed that once upon a time, Ko Samet was the home of pirates and that until this very day there is still lost treasure buried somewhere on the island.

The classical Thai Poet, Sunthorn Phu (1786-1855), set part of his epic work, Phra Aphai Mani (sometimes transliterated as Pra Apaimanee), on the shores of the island.[3] Statues of the title character, Prince Aphai Mani and the siren/mermaid which guided him to Ko Samet can be found on the Hat Sai Gaew beach.

Coordinates: 12°34′4″N 101°27′17″E / 12.56778°N 101.45472°E / 12.56778; 101.45472

Even though Bangkokians had known about the beauty of Ko Samet for decades before, the Thai government put this island off limits and restricted overnight stay there; that was until 1981. In that year, on 1 October, the Forestry Department of Thailand declared Koh Samet and its surrounding to be a national park.

Transportation

Roads

There are 2 main routes on Ko Samet.

  • Northern route connects Hat Sai Kaew to Ao Klang and Ao Noi Na.
  • Central route consists of 4 smaller roads. The first road links Sai Kaew beach to Ao Phai and Ao Phutsa. The second road connects the center of island to Ao Wong Dueon. The third road connects the first road to Ao Thap Thim and Ao Nuan. The forth road connects the first road to Ao Phrao.

Songthaew (public passenger pick-up vehicle)

The public passenger pick-up vehicles are the most popular mode of public transportation in all the town districts.

Boat

Koh Samet has 5 piers: Ao Klang, Ao Phrao, Ao Wong Duen, Ao Thian and Ao Wai. Ao Klang Pier is the port to mainland. The rest are piers for diving and excursions.

Tourism

As Ko Samet is so near Bangkok, the island is ideal for those in the capital wanting to chill-out with their families for a couple of days, without having to go through all that rigmarole of having to travel down south. Ko Samet has developed steadily over the past decade or so, but it hasn’t been the victim of over zealous construction which has hit the likes of Ko Samui or even Ko Chang. The island is typified for its splendid beaches and white silky sand, surrounded by tropical coral reefs and crystal clear sea. Tourists can also enjoy a plethora of delicious cuisine and fine nightlife.

Sights

Most beaches are on the eastern side of the island. The beaches hide in small bays and stretch some 200 metres. From the north, there are Hat Sai Kaeo, Hat Hin Khrong, Hat Khlong Phai, Ao Phutsa, Ao Thapthim, Ao Naun, Ao Cho, Ao Thian, Ao Wai, Ao Kio Na Yok and Ao Karang. The only beach on the western side is Ao Phrao. One of the famous beaches is Ao Wong Duean in the middle of the eastern side. This beach stretches in the shape of an almost complete circle. Both Ao Wong Duean and Hat Sai Kaeo have very fine white sand.

  • Hat Sai Kaew (Diamond Beach) One of the most beautiful and most popular beaches on Koh Samet, Hat Sai Kaew is 1 kilometer long and 25 – 30 meters wide. The name speaks for itself, Hat Sai Kaew, which literally means Crystal Sand Beach, is a nice beach filled with activities. From dusk to dawn, it is the place for sunbathing, swimming, jet skiing, windsurfing, riding on a banana boat or even partying at night. Tourists are entertained by the spectacular fire shows and the peculiar population of short legged dogs. These dogs are believed to be interbred from many mongrel species brought over from the mainland in the 18th century by exiled Burmese hill tribes. Due to the shallow boat used by the Burmese these dogs never had a need to develop legs longer than 4 inches. The rapitidy with which this limbine evolution took place suggests a sexual rather than necessative change and is believed to be the only example in South East Asia.
  • Ao Noi Na Ao Noi Na, which is located near Hat Sai Kaew, has a different ambience to Hat Sai Kaew. It is quieter and therefore more suitable for those looking to relax on the white, sandy beach.
  • Ao Hin Krong Located close to Hat Sai Kaew, Ao hin Krong is therefore quite crowded. For visitors interested in sunbathing, Windsurfing, with the crystal clear water this is the good place.
  • Ao Phai Ao Phai is a small bay on Koh Samet which draws repeat visitors intent on relaxing. Suitable for those who are tired of crowded beaches and nightlife activities, Ao Phai offers a quiet natural retreat.
  • Ao Phutsa Ao Put sa, which is set in a peaceful atmosphere, is located near Ao Nuan and is well known for its white sand and clear water. Ao Phutsa has a small, cozy resort, which provides nice services in a well decorated compound.
  • Ao Nuan a small quiet bay with nine bungalows.
  • Ao Wong Deuan Ao Wong Deuan is the second largest beach on the island (the first being Hat Sai Kaew). Ao Wong Deuan attracts tourist groups during both the high and low seasons due to its beach and good accommodation. On top of this, seafood restaurants with nice views are also available.
  • Ao Wai Ao Wai is located within a short walking distance of Candlelight Beach. Shaded by coconut trees, the beach is quite and scenic.
  • Ao Kiu Nok This bay is decent for those planning to keep their distance from the busy, crowded beaches and nightlife. From Aow Kiew Nok, visitors can actually walk to Aow Kiew Nai is the ideal spot on the island to see the sun rise and sun set.
  • Ao Karang This is the best place on the island to experience the traditional lifestyle of the residents of Koh Samet, is at Ao Karang, where there also are a number of seafood restaurants providing seafood dishes.
  • Ao Phrao Ao Prow is one of the quietest beaches of Ko Samet. Located quite far away from the nightlife of Ko Samet; Ao Prow is preferred by travelers who quietly enjoy the sea, swimming and sand.

Activities

Windsurfing

With its rocky coastline and offshore winds, Hin Krong beach is a good location for windsurfing.

Snorkeling / Diving

The Ko Samed area is a popular for divers and snorkelers due its close proximity to Bangkok and abundance of clear water, colorful coral and diversity of marine life such as: turtles, tiger sharks and manta rays. Two of the most favoured locations for diving around Ko Samed are Ko Talu and Ko Kud. Tourists can take a tour around the island and go snorkeling off the rocky uninhabited western side, or around the reefs at the southern tip. Scuba diving excursions can be arranged at Vong Duang.

Volleyball / Frisbee

Tourists enjoy playing volleyball and Frisbee on the beach.

Fishing

Night fishing trips for squid are usually arranged.

Boat Trips

These are arranged to take tourists (either by slow boat or speedboat) around the island to snorkeling and diving spots.

Massage On the beach there are countless masseurs offering their massage service. Of the beach on the main roads are massage shops.

Shopping

Ko Samet doesn't have much in the way of shopping beyond basic beach accessories (sarongs, T-shirts, etc). But, there are high quality crystal products and reed products. Good quality crystals are usually sold at the Lotus Crystal Factory.

Nightlife

There are bar-beers at virtually every beach, nearly all of them on Hat Sai Kaew have hostesses. Besides bars there isn’t much else but restaurants selling alcohol. You can even get the popular sand bucket full of your favorite drink.

Local Culture

Story has it that Thailand’s most famous poet, the Sunthorn Phu, set his classic Phra Aphai Manee on Ko Samet. The story revolves around a giantess who captured the revered Phra Aprai Manee and held him there. Subsequently, he was able to escape and married a delightful mermaid and lived happily ever after. There is a statue of him at Hat Sai Kaew.

Life-style

Thai Buddhism is a large part of the people’s lives on Ko Samet and so there are some temples scattered around. Many of the folk on Ko Samet however, are not originally from the island, but moved there to make a decent living through tourism.

Events / Festivals

  • Rayong Fruit Festival (งานเทศกาลผลไม้และของดีเมืองระยอง) In May of each year, Rayong's fruit reaches its peak season. The venue for celebration is always changed between Mueang and Klaeng districts. Tourists can enjoy floats decorated with fruits, fruit contests, beauty contests, as well as fruit and seafood fair.
  • Sunthon Phu Day (งานวันสุนทรภู่) Organised on June 26 of each year at Sunthorn Phu Monument, Klaeng district, to honour him. There are also exhibitions and plays from his poetry.
  • Changing the robe for Phra Chedi Klang Nam (งานห่มผ้าพระเจดีย์กลางน้ำ) The annual traditional event is held during the full moon night of the 12th lunar month, or in November. The robe blanketing around the pagoda in the middle of the Rayong River, in Mueang district, will be changed. Meanwhile, the people celebrate the event along with the Loi Krathong Festival by boat racing and many kinds of local entertainment.
  • Thot Pha Pa Klang Nam (Waterborne Robe Offering Ceremony) (งานทอดผ้าป่ากลางน้ำ) During the Loi Krathong Festival of each year, or on the full moon night of November, people living near the mouth of the Prasae River prepare a monk's robe at the pier. After completing the ceremony on the boat, a monk comes to get it. Normally, the robe offering ceremony is held at the temple. This special tradition has been inherited for over a century.

Learn

Thai Boxing (Muay Thai)

Muay Thai, being a famous traditional boxing is open to everyone who prefers to learn. The main Thai Boxing teaching center on Ko Samet is at ‘Naga’.

Fire Spinning

There are courses on learning the art of fire-spinning. The small school is located in Nadan Village.

Local Food

Popular local food in Ko Samet includes fried durian and fruits which also includes rambutan and mangosteen. The province is also well-known for its seafood products such as: shrimp paste, fish sauce, dried shrimp, squid, octopus and other dried seafood.

Medical Health Care

On Koh Samet, there is one hospital near Sai Kaew beach, but for anything serious it’s better to return to Bangkok. For nothing too severe there are plenty of clinics and pharmacies in the main areas.

Retirement

More and more foreigners are living on Ko Samet, many of them retirees. A favourite spot for them are on the beaches. There are some other retirees though, who reside in quieter locations away from the tourist scene.

Media/Contact

Nationwide television, cable TVs, local cable TV channels are available in Ko Samet . International newspapers and magazines are available at the tourist spots.

Landline telephones, satellite phones, all mobile phone systems, high-speed internet (ADSL), post offices and parcel services are available in province.

Kamala Beach


A





fter the crass commercialness of Patong, long, sweeping Kamala Beach is a breath of fresh air. Lined by casuarinas, Kamala makes for fine swimming and it's easy to find your own patch of sand. During the short wet season don't be surprised to find the locals (and the occasional tourist) trying to fit in a bit of surfing.

Kamala feels more like a little Thai village than other towns on Phuket. It still has the standard touristy stuff, but you don't need to walk far to find an unaffected place or enjoy an authentic meal at a restaurant that sees more locals than tourists. However, with a number of new resorts and private apartments under construction and even more being planned, Kamala seems destined to eventually lose its small-town charm.

While the beach's far northern end remains mostly undeveloped due to a Muslim cemetery, the mountainous headlands to the south are dotted with cranes and half-built luxury villas. Known as Millionaire's Mile, this area is Phuket's latest hot-spot for exclusive resorts and vacation homes for the rich and famous -- Madonna owns property here.

A paved road runs the length of the beach, but is broken in the middle by the police station and a small park. Cheap guesthouses and a couple mid-range resorts can be found at both ends of the beach. A sandy path along Kamala's northern stretch is popular with joggers, but also used by locals on motorbikes as a short-cut into town.

During the high season activities like windsurfing, water-skiing, banana boats, fishing trips and island hopping all run on a daily basis. But in the low season all signs of watersports vanish, leaving just sun-bleached price-lists tacked to palm trees to linger in the seabreeze.

Koh Samui

Koh Samui

Back in the halcyon days of the 1960's, there were no Lonely Planets to guide the trickle of adventurers travelling overland between Europe and Asia. Unlike today's pampered and ubiquitous backpackers, yesterday's intrepid young explorers had to rely on word of mouth advice about the route lying ahead. Amongst other essentials, this included "approved" lodgings, where kindred spirits globe-trotting in opposite directions congregated, and exchanged information about rutted roads already endured.

One such hostelry was the legendary Thai Song Greet Hotel, (alas, gone forever) near Bangkok's central Hualumpong railway station. At 20 baht (then worth US$1) a night, it was still considered "expensive" for it had grimy rooms, and guests shared a small, smelly toilet-cum-bathroom at the end of each cluttered and humid corridor. Those who could not afford the hotel's dubious luxury nevertheless came here to obtain that precious intelligence essential for their onward journey.

If Koh Samui is well known today, the first reverent mention of the name was most likely heard in the packed downstairs restaurant of that dirty but charismatic tryst. Amongst the pungent smoke billowing from the cook's wok, word frequently passed around about an idyllic island in the south east of Thailand, very difficult to reach, a place with only walking tracks, and as close to being paradise as Mother Earth can possibly provide. Furthermore, this was no tiny islet, but a large and mountainous tropical haven with rushing streams, thick forests, and dozens of deserted pristine palm-fringed beaches, the stuff of dreams and fantasy.

Born therefore - like so many other resorts - of backpackers' private discoveries, Samui forty years on boasts a network of roads, an entire tourism infrastructure, and almost-hourly flights landing at the picturesque airport. If purists might lament this transformation, the island nonetheless retains much of its magic, and international tourism has done little so far to mar the intrinsic tropical beauty. Development has affected mostly the coastal areas, and much of the mountainous interior remains untouched. Up here, the friendly inhabitants carry on their lives cultivating coconuts, banana, durian and paddy just as before, accepting sun-lotioned foreigners as an inevitable result of progress, like telephones and television.

Today, plump middle-aged codgers, who, as slim pimply-faced youths might have lounged under Samui's swaying palms in 1962, can still relive that lost island feeling today, albeit with luxury hotels and the conveniences of the 21st century all around, and the sense of real adventure long since gone.

Roughly 250 square kilometres in size, and rising to a height of 635 metres, this rugged granite island is almost the size of Penang, and Thailand's third largest after Phuket and Ko Chang. ("Koh"is Thai for island) Settled originally by Malaysian and Chinese fishermen, it is thought that the name Samui derives from the Chinese word Saboey, meaning safe harbour. Less developed than Phuket, it boasts its own distinct personality, and the proud native population of around 50,000 speaks its own distinctive southern dialect.

It has an enjoyable but often unpredictable mix of tropical weather conditions, the sunniest months falling between January and August, with occasional refreshing downpours. More frequent rainstorms arrive in September/October, lasting through to December. The hottest months are from March to June. The sea temperature averages 29 degrees Celsius year round.


What to Do?

As hedonists gleefully point out, this exotic corner of Asia is a beach lover's dream, for it has no historical or cultural "must sees". If you do nothing for your entire stay than eat, sunbathe, swim and sleep, you are not likely to feel that your indulgence has caused you to miss seeing some once-in-a-lifetime attraction. At worst, you will deny yourself the pleasure of seeing some stunning natural scenery, a few interesting temples, and probably add a few unwelcome kilos to your mortal frame. If you decide to go sightseeing, a couple of excursions and a hire car for a day or two will do nicely. There are also pleasant boat trips to the Ang Thong Marine National Park, or to smaller neighbouring islands such as Koh Tao, or the larger island of Pha-Ngan, the latter a trendy full-moon place of pilgrimage for the modern-day counterparts of the Thai Song Greet Hotel. Numerous SCUBA schools cater for beginners as well as conducting deep dives for skilled aficionados in waters rich in marine life off deserted uninhabited islands.

The profound beauty of the area has attracted a number of artists, writers and retirees, living happily ever after in secluded island corners. Drawn also by the idyllic environment, purveyors of alternative medicine and whole-body practices enthusiastically offer their services, as do others teaching metaphysical and martial arts. In contrast to the all night swinging discos with their less-than-healthy associations, Samui is becoming a Mecca for followers of physical and spiritual disciplines.

Several establishments on the island offer supervised "detoxification" and fasting programmes, often coupled with yoga, meditation, or other mind-body regimes. Other possibilities include a broad spectrum of treatments or instruction, including Thai Massage, Shiatsu, Craniosacral Therapy, Acupuncture, Reflexology, Aromatherapy, Colonic Lavage, Ayurveda, Acupressure, Hydrotherapy, Qi Kung, Reiki, Vortex Astrology, Taoist Health, Tarot studies, and others.

Although many of these might be both bona-fide and beneficial, the line between holistic hype and medical fact is often blurred, as is that between the spurious and the spiritual. It is prudent therefore to check credibility and credentials carefully before going ahead.


On Land

Apart from organised tours, the simplest, easiest, and arguably the most enjoyable sightseeing option is a circumnavigation of the island with a hire car on the 52 kilometres of paved road, which for the most part, follows the coast. It is best conducted at a leisurely pace over two or three days, rather than a round-the-island-rush, which can be "done" in just 2-3 hours. Taking your time enables the exploration of smaller side roads, encourages local encounters, and opens a whole new window on the island's amazing appeal. Since the road completes a full circle, the best way to appreciate the different perspectives is to travel in both a clockwise and counter-clockwise direction on different days, and at different times of day. Although not a tempting thought on a relaxing holiday, some of the loveliest images happen only at dawn, when most tourists are fast asleep, and setting out just before sunrise can provide unforgettable combinations of natural beauty, human activities, and stunning blends of illumination. Since distances are relatively short, you can always return to your hotel and resume the magical tour after a hearty breakfast born of a healthy appetite - a great way to start the day.

Mountains dominate almost two thirds of the island. The lower slopes comprise mainly coconut plantations, an extension of the thousands of palms growing on the coastal plains - two million coconuts, they say, are exported to Bangkok every month. The higher altitudes are clothed in tropical forest, studded with impressive granite boulders. Many of the dirt roads and tracks are accessible by 4WD vehicles or trail bikes, but it is wise to take local advice before attempting to explore the hinterland unaccompanied. Trekking and mountain bike tours can be arranged through some local travel companies, and for the energetic, the scenic rewards are well worth the loss of perspiration. Also available on organised tours are an Elephant Trek, and a full day Jeep Safari to the less well-known spots in the interior.

The West Coast contains the island's main town of Nathon, which offers little in the way of sightseeing, but has a reasonable selection of shops and restaurants. The back streets still hide some old houses echoing a very different past, and a glimpse of island life before tourism arrived. Nathon is also one of the island's passenger ferry ports, the vehicle ferry port located further south, at Thong Yang. The south-western corner of the island is quiet and picturesque, with smaller roads and villages which are appealing, and most pleasant to explore. There are a number of small beaches here, but they do not compare with those on the East Coast.

The North Coast has a series of smaller beaches, some of which are good for swimming, snorkelling, and windsurfing when the northeast breezes blow from December to February. Hat Phra Yai at Bangrak is best known as the "Big Buddha Beach" - named after the tall gold- tiled sitting Buddha on a small island connected to the beach by a causeway, and constituting one of the island's best known landmarks.

The North East Coast provides a series of smaller capes and picturesque coves, some difficult to reach by road. From here there are excellent views over to Koh Pha-Ngan.

The East Coast: Samui's longest and most beautiful beach of Chaweng is located on this stretch. Fringed with swaying picture postcard palms, it extends for 5 kilometres, and makes for wonderful walks, particularly at dawn or sunset. Chaweng also has the largest variety of water sports, and a good selection of shops and entertainment.

The South East Coast: Samui's second longest beach of Lamai is here, again offering good tourism infrastructure, but with less sand and generally lacking the tropical beauty and exotic feel of Chaweng. Near Lamai there are two curious rock formations called Hinyai and Hinta, carved by the elements over centuries to resemble the male and female genital organs, and resultedly a popular tourist attraction. In Lamai itself there is an old monastery, which includes a small museum.

Some island sightseeing options include: The Butterfly Farm built into a hillside in the southeast corner, and the nearby Samui Aquarium which features live specimens of local marine life. The Samui Snake Farm located in the south west on the 4170 ring road, houses several species of venomous snakes, including a King Cobra (reputedly the largest captive specimen in Thailand) plus scorpions and centipedes, and has a daily show. The Samui Crocodile Farm, near the airport, also has daily shows. There is an interesting 150 year old Ancient House made of teakwood without using nails at Ban Thale, said to be the oldest house on the island and home to some impressive woodcarvings. Heaven's Garden is an open-air art gallery in the central highlands, the creation of a dedicated local man who sculpted dozens of figures inspired by Buddhist scriptures. Various Monkey Shows demonstrate the useful ability of monkeys to pick ripe nuts, as well as performing other tricks. For more aesthetic pursuits, you may wish to see the island's two mummified monks at Wat Kiri Wongkaram and Wat Khunaram in the south. Another revered site is the Coral Buddha, a small statue visited by Buddhist devotees. Although in disrepair, it is a major place of worship for the monks from nearby Wat Sumret, on the 4169 ring-road. This temple houses numerous Buddha images, the tallest three meters high and originally brought from India. Wat Sila Ngu also on the 4169 ring-road, one kilometer South of Hinta and Hinyai (mentioned above) is said to contain a relic of the Lord Buddha, and the temple is often used for travelling shows. Thai boxing performances can be seen most days at the Samui stadium. At Living Thailand in the south of the island there is a show reflecting traditional island lifestyles and customs, plus a buffalo theatre and a Thai farming museum. Samui's delightful Airport opened in 1989, and its 2,100 metre runway, handles more than 40 flights a day on services to Bangkok, Phuket, Pattaya (U-Tapao), Krabi and Singapore. More like a botanic garden than an airport, it has won a number of well-deserved awards for design and environmental compatibility. It is worth a visit just to admire the care and artistry that went into its creation.


At Sea

Ang Thong Marine National Park

This popular day excursion takes you to some 40 protected limestone islands about 30 km northwest of Ko Samui, the tallest reaching up to 400m and mostly covered in tropical rain forest - altogether beautiful and safe sanctuaries to dozens of bird species and other mammals.

The park headquarters (where most boats stop) is on Ko Wua Talab and a 400 metre climb to the peak offers superb panoramic views. Other islands have spectacular stalactite and stalagmite formations, and there is a lovely saltwater lake on Ko Mae Ko - a major attraction, but requiring a fairly strenuous climb in the heat of the day. For those in shape, a better and more adventurous way to explore this area is to book a one-day Kayaking Tour around the marine park, admiring the attractions close up, including fascinating rock formations, limestone cliffs, secret caves and alluring grottoes. Big Game Fishing day trips can also be arranged during your stay on Samui.

If time permits, visitors might want to visit the island of Pha Ngan, 15 kilometres to the north which is almost as large as Samui, and easily accessed by daily ferry boats. This island is high and rugged, with rocky granite headlands separating many palm- fringed beaches hiding in secluded coves. Another option is Koh Tao, the smallest and remotest of the three major islands, but sharing the same geological structure, with spectacular beaches, and dramatic rocky headlands dominated by huge granite boulders.


Evening Activities

The beaches of Chaweng and Lamai offer a wide range of unsophisticated but enjoyable entertainment, ranging from quiet bars to high-tech high-decibel discos, which extinguish their sounds only at dawn. For many folks, the most pleasant activity is dinner and a few drinks close to the beach, listening to the whispering of the palms, and the rhythmic sounds of the sea. .


Conclusion

For stressed victims of western lifestyles who dream of an exotic island idyll with the emphasis on utter relaxation and indulgent inactivity, Samui fulfills all such fervent desires. There are also many enjoyable pursuits for visitors who want to get out and about, so it is possible to combine the benefits of doing nothing with healthy sports and recreation in truly lovely surroundings.

Since Phuket is more developed and has more to offer in the way of general activities, it is worth remembering that there is a daily 45-minute air connection between the two islands, allowing for the best of both worlds: a two-centre Samui/Phuket holiday.

The Amari Palm Reef Hotel on Koh Samui is situated at the quieter north end of Chaweng Beach, nicely removed from the busier pace of the main resort, but just strolling distance away from the action when it is sought.

In Phuket, the same ideal positioning applies to the Amari Coral Beach Hotel, tucked into a quiet secluded headland, a few minutes south of the main Patong Beach.

A perfect combination.

Koh Yao Islands

Koh Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai are a pair of large islands in the middle of Phang Nga Bay, equidistant to Phuket and the Krabi mainland. While the pace of development is accelerating on Koh Yao Noi in particular, the islands remain a quiet refuge that feels far removed from the crowds of Phuket.

In 2002, Koh Yao Noi gained worldwide attention after receiving the World Legacy Award for Destination Stewardship from Conservation International and National Geographic Traveler magazine for the eco-friendly homestay programs offered by its local residents.

Other activities available on the island include agricultural demonstrations (rubber and fishing), kayaking, hiking, snorkelling and swimming.

Neither of the islands have banking facilities, but Internet service, restaurants and some shops can be found on Yao Noi, including a brand new 7-Eleven with a very powerful air-con, a good chance to cool down and get some sugary drinks and ice creams. So if you plan to stay over, remember to withdraw some cash money before you go, even though there are few opportunities to spend it! Note that the islanders are keen to preserve their traditional ways, so it's important to respect the local culture by dressing modestly and refraining from drinking alcohol outside of the restaurants/resorts catering to visitors.

Kata-Karon beach

Kata

The smallest of Phuket's three main tourist beaches, Kata is different in appearance and style from Karon or Patong. The beach itself is broad and curving, and structures bordering it are low–rise. The waters are perfect for swimming, and at the north end is a coral reef with many varied corals and fishes which stretches out toward Poo Island., about 1/2 km off shore. Facilities for every price range include hotels, bungalows, tour companies, restaurants, bars and clubs. There is regular bus service to and from Phuket Town during daytime.


Karon

The second largest of Phukets principal tourist beaches. Large resort complexes line the road back of the beach, but the strand itself, long and broad, has no development. The sand is very white, and squeaks audibly when walked on. The southern point has a fine coral reef stretching toward Kata and Poo Island. Restaurants, bars, tour companies and other non-hotel businesses are at the north end, near the traffic circle, and at the south, on the little road connecting the back road with the beach road. The narrow road between Kata and Karon has a number of small businesses as well as the Dino Park Mini Golf facility. Karon is the most up-scale of Phukets beaches. Regular daytime bus service to and from Phuket Town.